Most people can tell when a suit doesn't look right, but not why. Use this checklist in front of a mirror, ideally with someone to take photos from the side and back. For each point we note whether it's an easy alteration or something that's hard to fix.
1. Shoulders
What to look for: The shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends. No divots in the sleeve head, no padding hanging past your arm.
Can it be fixed? Rarely, and not cheaply. Shoulders are the first thing to get right when buying a suit.
2. Collar
What to look for: The jacket collar should sit against your shirt collar, with about a centimetre of shirt collar showing above it. A gap at the back of the neck is a common problem.
Can it be fixed? Often, depending on the cause.
3. Chest and buttoning
What to look for: Buttoned, the jacket should lie flat. An "X" of creases pulling from the button means it's too tight. Loose fabric folding at the chest means it's too big.
Can it be fixed? Taking in is usually easy. Letting out depends on how much seam allowance there is.
4. Waist and back
What to look for: A gentle shape through the waist, with no horizontal creases across the back and no excess fabric bunching above the vent.
Can it be fixed? Yes, this is one of the most common and effective alterations.
5. Sleeve length
What to look for: About 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff showing with your arms relaxed at your sides.
Can it be fixed? Yes. It's simpler on sleeves without working buttonholes.
6. Jacket length
What to look for: The jacket should cover your seat. A good guide is that the hem sits around the middle of your hand with your arms by your sides.
Can it be fixed? Only by a small amount. A jacket that's much too short or long is usually the wrong size.
7. Lapels
What to look for: Lapels should lie flat against your chest without bowing out.
Can it be fixed? Bowing usually means the chest is too tight, so fixing the chest can fix the lapels.
8. Trouser waist and seat
What to look for: Trousers should sit comfortably at your waist without a belt doing the work. The seat should drape cleanly, not cling or sag.
Can it be fixed? Yes, taking in the waist and seat is routine. If you prefer not to wear a belt, suspenders help trousers hang straighter.
9. Trouser leg
What to look for: A clean line from hip to hem without excess fabric flapping or pulling across the thigh.
Can it be fixed? Tapering the leg is straightforward.
10. Trouser break
What to look for: "Break" is how much the trouser folds where it meets your shoe. A slight break or no break looks modern; a full break looks traditional.
Can it be fixed? Yes, hemming is one of the quickest alterations.
Quick reference
Shoulders — Easy to alter?: No
Collar gap — Easy to alter?: Sometimes
Chest — Easy to alter?: Usually
Waist and back — Easy to alter?: Yes
Sleeve length — Easy to alter?: Yes
Jacket length — Easy to alter?: Small amounts only
Trouser waist and seat — Easy to alter?: Yes
Trouser taper — Easy to alter?: Yes
Hem and break — Easy to alter?: Yes
Alter or start fresh?
If the shoulders and jacket length are right, most other problems can be solved with alterations. Our guide to what's worth altering goes into detail, and our alterations service usually takes 5–7 business days.
If the shoulders are wrong or several points fail at once, a custom suit built from your own measurements is often better value than heavy alterations.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if a suit is too big?
Shoulder padding extending past your shoulders, sleeves covering your shirt cuff and fabric folding at the chest or back are the clearest signs.
How tight should a suit be?
Close to the body without pulling. When buttoned, you should be able to slide a flat hand inside the chest without the button straining.
What is the most important part of suit fit?
The shoulders, because they're the hardest and most expensive part to change.
Get a second opinion
Bring your suit into our Mermaid Beach studio and we'll tell you honestly what's worth fixing and quote before any work begins. Book an appointment.
